Comparison is the Thief of Joy & Progression
Climbing is a life long sport… hobby… lifestyle.. activity… journey? Journey might be a better term for it. Like Alabama said, “I’m in a hurry to get things done, oh I rush and rush, until life’s no fun.” So why the rush? When we start climbing we can see so much progress so fast, it’s easier to compare ourselves to others and set goals based on other people’s progression, “I did VX in X months, and then VX+2 in X years, and VX+4 in X+2 years!”
Climbing isn’t a sprint, it’s a marathon, one that we will hopefully all enjoy into our old age. It’s about mastery, not ticking the next grade. Yes, at some point we will tick our hardest climb, and it will all be “down hill” from there. But that doesn’t mean we can’t keep mastering the sport, moving better, and staying excited about climbing. Don’t get frustrated because someone got further in less time than you, once we’ve been climbing for five even ten years it all starts to even out. It can be easy to get swept away by your timeline and grades in the beginning, when it seems like new grades just happen as you climb more and more. Eventually that progress will slow down.
So what can you do when comparison starts creeping in? First think about your goals, why do you climb? If it’s to tick a new grade that can only last so long. Even if you could keep up 2-3 new grades every year, there’s only 18 levels in bouldering, you’d run out in six to nine years. Remember you are on your journey, and no matter how fast you saw someone progress, someone did it even faster. It’s what we do when we “plateau” that really matters.
“In the end the race is long, but it’s only with yourself”
Tips & Tricks for Progression
Everyone is different… We all come in to climbing with different strengths, weaknesses, and genetics. Everyone’s climbing journey and tick list is different. Just because your friend with tendons of steal did that hard mono climb, doesn’t mean you have to. You are your own person with your own goals, you don’t need to copy someone else’s tick list and goals because you want to match their progression.
Go your own way!
Set realistic attainable goals… While the end goal might be big, 5.Whatever or V-Whatever, don’t let that distract you in the short term. Set goals that can guide you to that ultimate goal. Instead of looking at one broad overarching goals, slowly tick away at smaller goals. Increasing your flash grade, doing 10 climbs of an easier grade. Increasing grades on different styles, rock, gyms, boards, etc. By setting a variety of smaller goals, we not only feel the success of completing a goal, but by setting a variety of goals on different styles or rocks, we will master new techniques and skills that will take us further in the long run.
Focus… Try hard… Climbing harder and progressing isn’t about gripping harder or pulling harder. Often times it’s about being more focused. Executing moves perfectly, and having the proper technique. If you fail, don’t immediately go to more pull ups or hangboarding, but assess why you fell, and what you could do better.
Don’t ignore “easy” climbs… Hard climbs are made up of easier climbs (usually). A V10 might have a V6 sequence in it. 5.13 could have a lot of 5.11 climbing in it. “Mastering” easier climbs, and not just muscling our way through climbs will make harder climbs more attainable. With all the boards and high turn over rate in commercial gyms, means we can always swipe to or get on something new, trying to find the easiest of the next grade, while staying in an endless loop of sampling but not sending.
Know your weaknesses… And work on your weaknesses. Avoid the slab? Climb the slab! Hate slopers? Climb slopers! Sure keep progressing your strengths, but don’t be that climber that can climb V12 on the Moon Board and then falls of V4 slab. Progressing weaknesses will make you better and more well rounded.
Don’t get injured… This is a common mistake among new and experienced climbers. We sneak in an extra session, stay an hour too long. More volume must equal more progression. But don’t sacrifice short term gains for an injury. In the span of 10 years, an extra rest day will go a lot further than getting injured and being out for weeks or months. Being fresh and well rested, and prioritizing quality of sessions over quantity will take you a lot further.
Climbing is dangerous, it involves inherent and other risks and cannot be eliminated. The information presented here does not describe all of the risks associated with climbing and is not intended to replace or supersede expert instruction and training.
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